Old Vietnam is alive and well at one of the country’s most sacred pagodas

Clay statues depict 18 Arhats (Buddhist monks post-enlightenment) at Chuong Pagoda

Chuong Pagoda, the centerpiece of Vietnam’s largest port in the 17th and 18th centuries, still stands as a tall reminder of Vietnam’s not so distant past: a time of spirituality, tradition and simple beauty.

Still the most scenic spot in the former town of Pho Hien, now a part of the town of Hung Yen, the pagoda has lost none of its historic allure.

Pho Hien was once the north’s premier port city and a vibrant commercial and cultural melting pot of Vietnamese and foreign peoples. It was second only to the capital city of Thang Long (now Hanoi) in terms of commercial activity.

Today, visitors to Hung Yen can see the unique historical and cultural remains of the past at Chuong (Bell) Pagoda.

Built in the 15th century under the Le Dynasty, the pagoda was then restored in 1707 in the architectural style of the post-Le period.

The pagoda’s name came from a legend:

In the days of myths and folk tales, a golden bell drifted to the shore of the Red River in Nhan Duc Village during a flood and when the waters receded it began to sink in the mud.

Throngs of residents of neighboring villages rushed to Nhan Duc to save the bell but they could not make it budge, it was too heavy.

Eventually a group of Nhan Duc villagers were able to take the bell home. Believing they had been granted the charm by God, the villagers then built a pagoda to worship the bell, whose toll could be heard for miles around.

Also known as Kim Chung Tu (Golden Bell Pagoda), the religious complex was built with meticulous attention to detail.

After entering the Cong tam quan (three-entrance gate), which has eight roofs, visitors cross a stone bridge over a lotus pond. The bridge will lead them to a brick patio made of bricks from Hanoi’s famous Bat Trang handicraft village.

Walking across the stone walkway in the middle of the patio is like walking through time. The path leads to a courtyard in front of the sanctuary compound. The bell tower and altar house, where local residents worship their ancestors, follow next

HOW TO GET THERE

 - Chuong Pagoda is located in Nhan Duc Village, Hien Nam Ward, Hung Yen Town, Hung Yen Province, 64 kilometers south-east from Hanoi.

 - From Hanoi, tourists can take buses 205, 208, or 209 from the Luong Yen and Giap Bat bus stations to get to the pagoda.

 - They can also book private buses at Hanoi’s Gia Lam bus station for the trip.

 - Another way is to travel by boat on the Hanoi – Pho Hien route from the Red River tourism wharf.

Cong tam quan (Three-entrance gate) at Chuong Pagoda in the northern province of Hung Yen

The pagoda, recognized as a National Architectural Relic by the government in 1992, has many carved Buddha statues, including the Tam The (three Buddhas of the Past, Present and Future), A-di-da (Amitabha), and four Bo-tat (Bodhisattvas).

Next is a startling wood relief depicting the Thap Dien Diem Vuong (Ten Courts Managed by the 10 Kings of Hell).

In it, sinners are depicted serving out punishments for their crimes: some are being dumped into a cauldron of boiling oil; others are having their tongues cut out.

But the Thap bat La Han (18 Arhats), made of clay, are much more peaceful. Each one depicts a wise monk expressing a different attitude.

The Arhats are Buddhists who have achieved full spiritual fulfillment. They have reached “Nirvana,” the state of absolute freedom from worldly cravings, and thus they are no longer subject to reincarnation.

Tourists can go up to the bell tower before contemplating a stele which dates back to 1711, built under the reign of King Le Du Tong. On the stele is engraved a picture of Pho Hien and the city of Thang Long.

The stele helped researchers locate the commercial road that once connected Pho Hien and Thang Long. It used to pass right by the Chuong Pagoda gate. The map also helped historians locate the borders of Pho Hien’s original 20 wards

The mad hatters of Chuong Village

Chuong Village has been the home of Vietnam’s famous non la (conical leaf hat) for centuries.

The small village, around 30 kilometers from downtown Hanoi, is often crowded with people buying non la and also watching local craftswomen make it.

The village’s Non Market is open from 6 a.m. to 8 a.m., six times a month, on the 4th, 10th, 14th, 20th, 24th, and 30th days of the lunar calendar.

Most non la are made from palm leaves. The leaf is cleaned with sand before being left in the sun to whiten. It is then evened by a blade.

The hat makers of Chuong Village, all women, then place the leaves over a frame made of bamboo circles. The leaves are tied into place with string and sewn from top to bottom. The excess leaves are then trimmed. Strong sewing makes the most durable hats.

Finally, to make the hat whiter and protect it from mold, the hats are singed with burning matches.

A man in the Central Highlands has transformed his cafe into a Jurassic Park of sorts, displaying more than 300 fossils he"s collected, some of them dating from hundreds of millions of years ago.

Most of the fossils on display at Hoang Thanh"s cafe in the Dak Lak Province town of Buon Ma Thuot are the remains of ferns and pines. Dozens of them are the remains of animals. Thanh collected the artifacts for dozens of years all over the highlands region.

His largest wood fossil, 1.7 meters long and weighing more than two tons, has been identified by scientists as coming from the Jurassic period 175 million years ago, Thanh said.

People can still see the core of the wood and its brown bark.

Another fossil 2.2 meters long is a mixture of minerals from a volcanic eruption. It makes a loud bell-like sound when struck. 

Thanh calls it the “rock bell” and named his café after it: Chuong Da.

He has refused several offers to buy his fossils. They are "too precious" for money, he said.

The government will also allow foreign tourists to claim refund of value added tax (VAT) when they buy goods during the two months under the “Impressive Vietnam Grand Sale 2010” program, according to the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Meanwhile, many shops, trade centers, and service providers in Hanoi, Da Nang, and Ho Chi Minh City have pledged to offer discounts of 10-40 percent to both local and foreign tourists during the promotion.

Vietnam attracted 1.35 million foreign visitors in the first quarter this year, a 36 percent year-on-year increase.

The country hopes to welcome 4.2 million visitors this year.

For several generations, these markets have kept afloat rural livelihoods, a way of life, and a distinct culture

Can Tho City’s Cai Rang Floating Market is one of the biggest floating markets in the southern region

Floating markets are great tourist draws.

Found only in Southeast Asia, the sight of boats as shops and food stops, the colors of the boats and the produce, ranging from flowers to fruits and vegetables to everything else found in on-land markets, never fail to impress.

However, if you were to tarry a while, the markets have interesting stories to tell, stories of those whose families have been clothed and fed for generations by them, of those who have met their life partners there, and those who cannot imagine their lives without it.

When the first rays of the sun spread their light, thousands of boats of different sizes have already converged along the Tien and Hau rivers in locations that have remained the same for centuries, whether it is Cai Be (Tien Giang Province), Tra On (Vinh Long Province), Phong Dien (Can Tho City) or Thoi Binh (Ca Mau Province).

Not only have the boats gathered, but the markets are already in full swing at dawn. The scene of sellers skillfully throwing and catching goods from one boat to another with the skill of jugglers is one that stands out, but there are many other chaotic scenes where the underlying method is not immediately apparent.

Unlike shops and stalls in ordinary markets, sellers cannot cry out their wares since it is impossible to be heard amidst the noise of running boat engines. So samples of goods are hung on bamboo poles that can be easily seen from afar.

Floating markets draw people from everywhere, and a boat’s initials, like registration plates, identify where it is from. A boat marked “TG” is one that comes from Tien Giang Province, for instance.

Among the big boats are small ones darting in and out selling cooked food and drinks to market-goers and visitors. These swimming canteens skillfully draw alongside boats ordering food and drinks, but there are also occasions when the big boats make a food stop by the side of smaller ones.

One would expect that a floating market is no place for a service industry, but these days, they also offer several “modern” services like installing ringtones and wallpaper for cell phones and cell phone repairs.

Repositories of culture

Floating markets are also living museums of the southern traditional culture that has been fostered by the Mekong Delta’s interlacing waterway systems.

With the advent of several new road networks and bridges over many rivers, as well as the setting up of supermarkets on the mainland, the indispensability of floating markets has been dented somewhat, but the waterways still offer the only route to several rural remote areas in the region.

But many locals still prefer floating markets which have been a part of their daily lives and livelihoods for generations

 
The floating market has helped Van raise her three children and send them to school

Lam, a merchant from Hau Giang Province who drives his boat to Can Tho City’s Cai Rang Floating Market, one of the biggest in the south, says: “My whole clan lives as vendors on floating markets. We own more than ten boats.”

They have an advantage in working together because they can easily exchange information about prices and demand and supply in market, Lam adds.

Di Ba, as she is called by everyone at the Cai Rang Floating Market, is probably the most famous name among food sellers here. For more than thirty years, the woman whose real name is Nguyen Thi Ngoc Van, has taken her small boat to the market, serving bun (noodle) to the locals.

Her family was very poor, Di Ba says. “Like other poor people, my husband and I have to go “down” the river for a living since we don’t have any job or land.”

However, this 60-year-old woman has not only raised her three children well, but also given them a complete education that has changed their lives.

Her children don’t want their mother to continue selling noodles at the floating market at her age, but Di Ba cannot quit. “I am so attached to the market that I feel uncomfortable if I am separated from it.”

From Hai Lang Town in the central province of Quang Tri, we drove across 6 kilometers of dusty roads bordered by tall grass and eucalyptus trees.

Before we reached Tra Loc Lagoon, we were refreshed by a drive through a dense forest.

Arriving at the lagoon, we could see the tall trees reflect perfectly in the still, ripple-less water.

Clear water, cool wind, pristine beauty.

Parts of the lagoon were blanketed by water-ferns, lotuses, and water-lilies.

The fragrance of cajuput flowers wafted from the forest and over the lagoon.

Monkeys gazed at us as they jumped from tree to tree in the forest.

The four-meter-deep lagoon is home to freshwater fish, including carp, snakehead fish, thac lac fish, and even wild ducks.

Groups can rent huts on stilts at the lagoon’s edge to stay over-night, singing, playing guitar and feasting all night. Food at the lagoon, mostly made from local fish, is delicious and cheap.

Some prefer to just sit silently, listening to the songs of singing birds in the forest.

Sa Huynh Beach in the central province of Quang Ngai has clear water, golden sand, and pine trees… It also has a small rocky surprise

The stretch is just 200 meters long, cut off from the rest of the 10-kilometer long Sa Huynh Beach by two rocky ranges.

But Bai Con (Little Beach), which locals call Sa Huynh’s “abandoned child,” has its own unique beauty.

Unlike the other part of Sa Huynh Beach, the waters of Bai Con are always calm and peaceful.

From the nearby Cam Mountain, Bai Con’s golden sands make it look like a yellow silk strip floating on a blue sea.

The two long rocky ranges offer a special adventure for the beachgoers, as navigating them is fun, but not always easy.

From Bai Con, we went west along the rocks, listening to the bird songs from the trees of a nearby mountain. Some of them decided to give us a surprise by darting out of the trees and flying to the rocks we were “walking” on.

After walking for about 20 minutes, we saw the Thien Y A Na Goddess Temple. Thien Y A Na is the Vietnamese name for Po Nagar, the Goddess of the Cham people.

Sa Huynh fishermen visit the temple and pray for a safe trip before heading out to sea.

How to get there

- Bai Con is around 60 kilometers south of the town of Quang Ngai in its namesake province.

- To reach the beach, visit the Sa Huynh Tourism Site in Pho Thanh Commune in Duc Pho District. You can park your vehicles there or around the site. Then ask a xe om (motorbike taxi) to take you to Bai Con (about VND15,000 per person) as there are no parking lots near the beach . You will arrive at Bai Con twenty minutes later.

- You should bring food to enjoy at the beach.

- Apart from Bai Con, you can also explore Hoc Mo Cave in Thanh Duc 2 Hamlet in Pho Thanh Commune and travel around Ma Vuong Hill in the neighboring Pho Khanh Commune to see historic archeological sites.

We moved back and went east. Not long after, we saw smoke rising into the air from people baking oysters. We sheltered behind a large rock to avoid the smoke.

When locals have some free time, they come to the beach with lit torches. They choose some rocks to which numerous oysters cling and bake them. The high temperature force the oysters to open their mouths but their shells are still attached to the rocks.

They are then seasoned with pepper, salt, and lemon juice before the meat is taken out and consumed, accompanied very often by local alcohol. If you are a visitor, chances are you will get invited by the hospitable residents to join them for this special meal.

It is also possible to buy fresh oysters on the way to Bai Con for around VND35,000 (about $2) per kilogram. An oyster soup of rice porridge is a surprisingly enjoyable meal.

Local residents will extend their hospitality if you ask to join them as they take their boats out to sea. Drifting on the gentle waters of Bai Con is a good way to soak in the peaceful atmosphere.

When you are on the boat, it is not a bad idea to carry a pair of binoculars to watch monkeys forage for food on the nearby mountain.