From Hai Lang Town in the central province of Quang Tri, we drove across 6 kilometers of dusty roads bordered by tall grass and eucalyptus trees.

Before we reached Tra Loc Lagoon, we were refreshed by a drive through a dense forest.

Arriving at the lagoon, we could see the tall trees reflect perfectly in the still, ripple-less water.

Clear water, cool wind, pristine beauty.

Parts of the lagoon were blanketed by water-ferns, lotuses, and water-lilies.

The fragrance of cajuput flowers wafted from the forest and over the lagoon.

Monkeys gazed at us as they jumped from tree to tree in the forest.

The four-meter-deep lagoon is home to freshwater fish, including carp, snakehead fish, thac lac fish, and even wild ducks.

Groups can rent huts on stilts at the lagoon’s edge to stay over-night, singing, playing guitar and feasting all night. Food at the lagoon, mostly made from local fish, is delicious and cheap.

Some prefer to just sit silently, listening to the songs of singing birds in the forest.

For several generations, these markets have kept afloat rural livelihoods, a way of life, and a distinct culture

Can Tho City’s Cai Rang Floating Market is one of the biggest floating markets in the southern region

Floating markets are great tourist draws.

Found only in Southeast Asia, the sight of boats as shops and food stops, the colors of the boats and the produce, ranging from flowers to fruits and vegetables to everything else found in on-land markets, never fail to impress.

However, if you were to tarry a while, the markets have interesting stories to tell, stories of those whose families have been clothed and fed for generations by them, of those who have met their life partners there, and those who cannot imagine their lives without it.

When the first rays of the sun spread their light, thousands of boats of different sizes have already converged along the Tien and Hau rivers in locations that have remained the same for centuries, whether it is Cai Be (Tien Giang Province), Tra On (Vinh Long Province), Phong Dien (Can Tho City) or Thoi Binh (Ca Mau Province).

Not only have the boats gathered, but the markets are already in full swing at dawn. The scene of sellers skillfully throwing and catching goods from one boat to another with the skill of jugglers is one that stands out, but there are many other chaotic scenes where the underlying method is not immediately apparent.

Unlike shops and stalls in ordinary markets, sellers cannot cry out their wares since it is impossible to be heard amidst the noise of running boat engines. So samples of goods are hung on bamboo poles that can be easily seen from afar.

Floating markets draw people from everywhere, and a boat’s initials, like registration plates, identify where it is from. A boat marked “TG” is one that comes from Tien Giang Province, for instance.

Among the big boats are small ones darting in and out selling cooked food and drinks to market-goers and visitors. These swimming canteens skillfully draw alongside boats ordering food and drinks, but there are also occasions when the big boats make a food stop by the side of smaller ones.

One would expect that a floating market is no place for a service industry, but these days, they also offer several “modern” services like installing ringtones and wallpaper for cell phones and cell phone repairs.

Repositories of culture

Floating markets are also living museums of the southern traditional culture that has been fostered by the Mekong Delta’s interlacing waterway systems.

With the advent of several new road networks and bridges over many rivers, as well as the setting up of supermarkets on the mainland, the indispensability of floating markets has been dented somewhat, but the waterways still offer the only route to several rural remote areas in the region.

But many locals still prefer floating markets which have been a part of their daily lives and livelihoods for generations

 
The floating market has helped Van raise her three children and send them to school

Lam, a merchant from Hau Giang Province who drives his boat to Can Tho City’s Cai Rang Floating Market, one of the biggest in the south, says: “My whole clan lives as vendors on floating markets. We own more than ten boats.”

They have an advantage in working together because they can easily exchange information about prices and demand and supply in market, Lam adds.

Di Ba, as she is called by everyone at the Cai Rang Floating Market, is probably the most famous name among food sellers here. For more than thirty years, the woman whose real name is Nguyen Thi Ngoc Van, has taken her small boat to the market, serving bun (noodle) to the locals.

Her family was very poor, Di Ba says. “Like other poor people, my husband and I have to go “down” the river for a living since we don’t have any job or land.”

However, this 60-year-old woman has not only raised her three children well, but also given them a complete education that has changed their lives.

Her children don’t want their mother to continue selling noodles at the floating market at her age, but Di Ba cannot quit. “I am so attached to the market that I feel uncomfortable if I am separated from it.”

From Duc Pho Town in the central province of Quang Ngai, we went west across seven kilometers of road through thick sugarcane fields.

We passed through a forest before the road let out into a poetic clearing of rocks and water. We had reached Da Giang Spring in Pho Nhon Commune.

We followed the spring that runs smoothly through rocks as the sound of crashing water grew louder and louder.

Then we hit the cascade, dozens of meters high. The waterfall created dazzling white spumes when it hit the spring.

It was easy to find large and flat rocks to use as small picnic tables. We were given shade by the leafy canopy of the old-growth forest.

My friend, who lives in the area, used a local trick to chill our beers: he placed them in a small hollowed out space in the rocks that filled with cool spring water. Ten minutes later, we were quenching our thirst with cold beer.

Orchids in yellow, purple, and pink jutted out from cliffs. Such a soft beauty in such a mighty forest!

Southern food is sweet and succulent, but it would be a sin to neglect these delicious northern novelties

Vietnam’s three major regions are as different as earth, wind and fire.

The people, landscape, weather and yes, even the food, change in almost every province, but the most pronounced differences come between the northern, central and southern regions.

Southern food is often sweet and filled with fruit while central food is known for being spicy and a bit salty.

But northern dishes are known for their subtlety and are often prepared in a minimalist way without losing out on flavor. Northern chefs concentrate on freshness and focus more on vegetables and pure fish sauce rather than on fruits and sugar like in the south. Spice is added to dishes by diners, not by the cooks.

Ho Chi Minh City has a cornucopia of restaurants from every region and sub-region in Vietnam and the world and many locals frequent northern eateries to get the rawer, simpler flavors of Hanoi and its surrounding areas.

Banh cuon (rolled rice cake) is one of the most popular northern dishes in HCMC.

The meal, which is often taken for breakfast, starts with a thin sheet of freshly cooked rice paper. Though these are normally prepared beforehand in HCMC, in the north they are made fresh to order. The papers are super-thin, sticky, wet, stretchy and chewy.

Skillfully rolled in the silky smooth paper is a delicious combination of ground pork and spices.

The cake is placed on the plate and sprinkled with tiny shrimp, chopped peppermint and coriander for a dash of freshness. The rolled cake is served with fish sauce and two kinds of Vietnamese cold-cuts: cha lua (lean pork paste) and cha que (roasted cinnamon pork paste). Northern banh cuon is served with a straight fish sauce, while southern eateries mix the sauce with sugar. Diners can add red-hot chilies to the sauce if they like.

Other northern foods popular in HCMC are pho ga Ha Noi (Hanoi chicken and rice noodle soup), banh da cua (rice pancake with crab soup), cha muc (squid cake), bun rieu cua (shrimp crab tomato soup with rice noodle) and canh bun (round noodle crab soup).

Many people in HCMC love eating canh bun with rau nhut (water mimosa) and rau muong (water spinach). The green, crispy leaves blend perfectly with the sharp broth and savory crab meat. This soup is also often a breakfast dish.

Other popular northern meals not usually taken for breakfast include canh cua rau day (jute plant crab soup) and ca phao muoi (salted egg-plant), which is served with mam tom (shrimp paste).

To get a taste that brings you back to the old historic streets of the northern capital, try the dishes listed above or go for ga rang muoi (fried chicken with salt), rau lang luoc (boiled sweet potato bud), and ca ro kho tuong ban (stewed anabas with bean paste) at any of these HCMC eateries specializing in northern delicacies:

Goc Ha Noi Restaurant
24/8 Pham Ngoc Thanh Street, Ward 6, District 3

Huong Xua Restaurant
222 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1

Dang Xua Restaurant
33 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Nga Restaurant
23 Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1

Bun Cha Hoang Tuan Restaurant
T11 Hong Linh Street, Bac Hai Quarter, District 10

Banh Cuon Restaurant
127 Dinh Tien Hoang Street, District 3

Reported by Nguyet Anh

Sa Huynh Beach in the central province of Quang Ngai has clear water, golden sand, and pine trees… It also has a small rocky surprise

The stretch is just 200 meters long, cut off from the rest of the 10-kilometer long Sa Huynh Beach by two rocky ranges.

But Bai Con (Little Beach), which locals call Sa Huynh’s “abandoned child,” has its own unique beauty.

Unlike the other part of Sa Huynh Beach, the waters of Bai Con are always calm and peaceful.

From the nearby Cam Mountain, Bai Con’s golden sands make it look like a yellow silk strip floating on a blue sea.

The two long rocky ranges offer a special adventure for the beachgoers, as navigating them is fun, but not always easy.

From Bai Con, we went west along the rocks, listening to the bird songs from the trees of a nearby mountain. Some of them decided to give us a surprise by darting out of the trees and flying to the rocks we were “walking” on.

After walking for about 20 minutes, we saw the Thien Y A Na Goddess Temple. Thien Y A Na is the Vietnamese name for Po Nagar, the Goddess of the Cham people.

Sa Huynh fishermen visit the temple and pray for a safe trip before heading out to sea.

How to get there

- Bai Con is around 60 kilometers south of the town of Quang Ngai in its namesake province.

- To reach the beach, visit the Sa Huynh Tourism Site in Pho Thanh Commune in Duc Pho District. You can park your vehicles there or around the site. Then ask a xe om (motorbike taxi) to take you to Bai Con (about VND15,000 per person) as there are no parking lots near the beach . You will arrive at Bai Con twenty minutes later.

- You should bring food to enjoy at the beach.

- Apart from Bai Con, you can also explore Hoc Mo Cave in Thanh Duc 2 Hamlet in Pho Thanh Commune and travel around Ma Vuong Hill in the neighboring Pho Khanh Commune to see historic archeological sites.

We moved back and went east. Not long after, we saw smoke rising into the air from people baking oysters. We sheltered behind a large rock to avoid the smoke.

When locals have some free time, they come to the beach with lit torches. They choose some rocks to which numerous oysters cling and bake them. The high temperature force the oysters to open their mouths but their shells are still attached to the rocks.

They are then seasoned with pepper, salt, and lemon juice before the meat is taken out and consumed, accompanied very often by local alcohol. If you are a visitor, chances are you will get invited by the hospitable residents to join them for this special meal.

It is also possible to buy fresh oysters on the way to Bai Con for around VND35,000 (about $2) per kilogram. An oyster soup of rice porridge is a surprisingly enjoyable meal.

Local residents will extend their hospitality if you ask to join them as they take their boats out to sea. Drifting on the gentle waters of Bai Con is a good way to soak in the peaceful atmosphere.

When you are on the boat, it is not a bad idea to carry a pair of binoculars to watch monkeys forage for food on the nearby mountain.

The “Great Wall” of central Vietnam tells a fascinating story of collaboration and ingenuity

Archaeologists study artifacts unearthed at a post on the rampart in the Chim Hut Pass area in the central province of Quang Ngai. (Photo by Hien Cu)

Archeologists surmise that it is an unusual work involving local indigenous H’re people, the Kinh ethnic group and Nguyen Dynasty soldiers.

After five years of excavation and study, it has been determined that the 200km-long rampart that runs from Quang Ngai to Binh Dinh provinces in central Vietnam is around 500 years old.

Researchers from the Vietnam Institute of Archaeology and the French School of the Far East in Hanoi say the historical relic runs along the Truong Son mountain range through eight districts of Quang Ngai before running into the districts of An Lao and Hoai Nhon in Binh Dinh, separating the plains and the highlands.

The longest and largest rampart in the country and the entire Southeast Asian region winds through mountains and valleys, sometimes at altitudes of nearly 800m, is 4-5m high and 6m wide at its base.

The wall is large and diverse, made of stone in some places to avoid landslides on high slopes and mountainous areas. These parts are a testament to the amazing rock arrangement skills of the indigenous H"Re people. The parts made of earth/lay were built mostly by the Kinh people and soldiers of the Nguyen Dynasty.

The rampart’s stones arrangement techniques, varying in different sections and terrains, can also be seen in structures on Ly Son Island in Quang Ngai Province.

Many researchers believe, based on notes found in the book of Dai Nam Thuc Luc (the annals of Dai Nam or the true record of the great south) and geographical records maintained during King Dong Khanh’s reign (1885-1889) and other documents compiled under the Nguyen Dynasty, that the rampart with 115 guarded posts was mostly built by general Le Van Duyet of the Nguyen Dynasty in 1819 during the reign of King Gia Long (1802-1820).

However, according to Dr. Nguyen Tien Dong, chief technical officer of the Vietnam Institute of Archaeology, the wall was built more than 500 years ago by the Vietnamese Kinh people, the H’re people and soldiers. By the 19th century, it was maintained as a military project, he said.

Dr. Nguyen Dang Vu, director of the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Quang Ngai, said some sections of the rampart on the mountains in Quang Ngai Province existed several centuries earlier. He speculates that these sections may have been built by General Bui Ta Han (1496–1568), known for both literary and martial art skills, when he was assigned to the head position of Quang Nam.

The discovery of many ceramic artifacts during excavations at some sections of the rampart also proves that the rampart was built in the 16th century, not the 19th; and the close trading relationships that existed between Vietnamese Kinh peoples and the indigenous ethnic minorities, including H"Re, Chinese, Ka Dong, Xo Dang, and the Ba Na.

One more thing that makes the rampart interesting is that it was built not only for protection and military purposes but also to facilitate trade. Along the wall, the sections which are interrupted by many rivers and streams, are the mini-forts, guarded by soldiers, to ensure and create a safe environment for the Kinh and H"Re ethnic people to do business.

Each of the forts mentioned earlier was an open gate that facilitated travel and trade. The H’re people bought salt from Vietnamese people and the Vietnamese people bought rice, cinnamon and forest products from the H’re.

Experts studying the rampart also say that there is evidence that it was not just the Vietnamese Kinh people, but also the Thai and the Muong from Thanh Hoa Province who were part of the migration from the north to the south during the 18th century.

During the Vietnam War, the rampart sections in Duc Pho and Hoai Nhon districts in Quang Ngai and Binh Dinh provinces respectively were also used as a branch of the Ho Chi Minh Trail to transport weapons and food from the north to the south of the country.

Unearth and preserve

Researchers say the conclusions they have reached over the last five years are still preliminary findings. They are looking for foreign documents about the relic, and will continue excavation works to unlock more secrets about the very unique architectural structure.

Dr. Nguyen Giang Hai, vice director of the Vietnam Institute of Archaeology, said that, “The heritage is still alive if only the locals have the heart to preserve. Therefore, there is a need to sow the seed of consciousness for protecting the relic in the community living alongside the structure.”

Prof. Christopher Young, head of the UK Heritage Council’s Advisory Board, said, “The general principle is that a world heritage is not something to admire, but that it is for the benefit of people. Therefore, the development of tourism related to this relic should involve benefits such as income-generation opportunities for communities living alongside.”

For its part, the institute should help Quang Ngai and Binh Dinh prepare the application for the rampart to be recognized as a national, cultural and historical relic. The legal recognition will help to protect it better and will also be necessaery preparatory work for subsequent recognition as a world cultural heritage by UNESCO, Hai added.